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by Shayok Mukhopadhyay
Jan 27, 2006 | Feb 19, 2005 | July 31, 2004 | May 14 | May 1

A commentary on the Amargosa Opera House, in the voice of someone else

One day in 1967 an unhappy dancer-painter broke down near Death Valley and decided to stay. She leased the abandoned theater at Death Valley Junction and decided to dance-paint there. She calls herself Marta Becket. I will tell you no more because the rest you may google. She would be responsible, jointly and severally, with a peacock for locking a writer-photographer in December of 2005 out of his warm room. This I will tell you more about because it you could not google. Until now that is.

The writer-photographer — who, for elegance, shall henceforth be called He — was born in the country that reckless white men five hundred years ago thought was the country He now lived in. He's idea of a Saturday night out in the middle of a week in Death Valley was to let go of fifteen and forty-five dollars, respectively, so that He would be allowed to sit through a eighty-two year old woman's pantomime and sleep in a bed in a motel so abandoned that not even an eighty-two year old woman would come to He's rescue if something (getting locked out by a peacock, for example) happened to him. Which, all would agree, was an improvement over a tent in a cold desert.

But at six o'clock on Saturday night this motel did not look abandoned. Derelict: maybe; desolate: hardly. Many that had done their google and dug their guidebook had assembled to witness Marta's winter weekly pantomime. Tickets were sold out of the Amargosa Motel that adjoined the Amargosa Opera House. An independent peacock strutted the yard and startled the many. Not one but two women womanned the office. One showed He to his room. He asked her if there was a guest laundry on the property. There wasnt, but what did He need washed? Fromming the country he was from, he couldnt tell her it was mostly underwear ("not much, shirts and stuff", quoth He), but inning the country He was in, He let her throw them in the washer, transfer them to the dryer, separate the shirts from the stuff and neatly lay them out on his bed so that they wouldnt wrinkle. Per the custom of the inned country, He offered her money for kindness, which she refused.

While the machine was working on He's stuff, He was crossing the stateline with the intention of committing the act of eating, the neighboring state being one where games of chance not limited to pieces of state-issued paper were legal, and such a house of chance was the only institution for many miles around where sustenance could be obtained. Included in its price was music that sounded like the live performer was being put to death in the manner prescribed fourteen hundred years ago for chicken by the prophet Muhammad.

At fifteen minutes to eight p.m., a sophisticated Saturday night performance hour, He and The Others were let into the Opera House by an impressing man in tails and top hat. The theater, equipped with a hundred antique seats obtained from another that had ceased business, greeted them warmly with a single stove's heat held in by foot-thick adobe walls, the latter's inner surfaces covered by Marta's paintings of an imaginary audience from a vanished time. The itemized list in the last sentence alone and only justified the admission. The impressing man played historian and art critic to He while He waited for the dancer's appearance, claiming a Diego Rivera influence on the painter. Daylight alas would reveal him to be the maintenance man whose most useful trait would be the possession of a duplicate key.

In due time, the lights dimmed, but instead of seeing the dancer He only heard a recorded voice for the next quarter hour repeat the history of the theater that He had already heard from the live voice of the impressing man. But it was the impressing man who had been repeating the history of the theater the man had heard from the recorded voice on Saturdays prior. Or had the man restricted himself to explicating the art, while the history He had absorbed from the numerous newspaper articles framed and displayed around the motel?

Suspicious of anyone able to make a living off art, He wondered if this was the painter's gimmick — living and dancing in the desert — designed to advertise her painting. The impressing man said that her brushwork sold while still in her head. The New York Gallery said "A solitary painter in the Amargosa desert, surrounded by ghosts of prospectors, she dances to a painted audience on nights when there isnt one."

Such malice was interrupted by Marta's eventual appearance. The show she called Masquerade: a parade of characters each occupying the stage for five minutes, played and sung by Marta, accompanied by a tape-recorder. At eighty, her performance had all the facility of ten eight year-olds in a school play.

Such slander would have to wait for daylight to be avenged by the peacock. The peacock had been flown from the country He had flown from. Not He's part, which was soft and muddy, but the sandy and dry part. So the peacock didnt mind Death Valley at all. So what if a bird that could actually fly was the national bird in this country? Here, the peacock, in pursuit of happiness, was free to harrass hotel guests for treats. Fearing that the bird would actually search He's room while He loaded the car, He slammed the door shut in the peacock's beak. Without the key in He's pocket.

There wasnt another living being around the motel for the next ninety minutes. The impressing man, shorn of tails and hat, but blest with a duplicate key, eventually let the writer-photographer back in. Penitent, He offered crackers to the peacock.


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Feb 19, 2005

How I Made an American Patriot's Day

I did not know it then, but the best part of the day was when I was driving down US Route 284 in pouring rain listening to the Prairie Home Companion on whatever public radio signal I managed to catch. Before that, I had been half locked out of my rental car in the middle of nowhere, i.e. my keys were in the trunk, and I didnt know how to open it from inside the car. A good samaritan passing by managed to locate the secret button inside the glove box.

As the Norwegian jokes from Minnesota faded off the crackling signal, and darkness fell, and the wiper blades beat louder than the rain, a large factory loomed up to the left, its halogen-lit smokestacks rising like beacons into the drizzly fog – a subject I've long wanted to tackle. An abandoned gas-station appeared miraculously to the right, providing a convenient shelter for myself and my camera.

As I set up the tripod, I thought I saw a shadowy figure sitting in a van in the back of the lot. I tried to pretend it wasnt there, but soon I had an overweight male in a baseball cap amble up. Mr Heartland himself. "Howya doin'?". Garrulous to boot.

- "Used to be a gas-station – I'm going to convert it into a Detailing shop."
* "Lucky I found your place, or else I wouldnt be able to take photos in this rain."
- "You like taking pictures of refineries?"
* "I see a lot of them along the New Jersey Turnpike..."

I managed to shake him off by concentrating on the image, but as I was folding the tripod and putting my stuff away, he reappeared and resumed where he'd left off: what I do with the pictures, how I print them; we seemed to be going in circles, and I was only being polite to this person of limited intelligence because I'd used his property. As I attempted Good Night for the third time, a police car pulled up. The cop got out and thanked my friend; he slipped back into the shadows he came from.

- "Have you been taking pictures of the refinery?"
Another cop car appeared.
* "Yes".
Then a third.
- "Can I see ID please?"
Why they left the front of my car unblocked I wonder. Was it a getaway bait? Or maybe I'd stretched the police force of Artesia, NM to capacity? I handed over my newly minted green-card and driver's license.
* "Am I in trouble?"
- "You're not supposed to photograph a refinery without permission. Homeland Security."
It didnt matter that a terrorist driving by in daytime with a single-use camera would get more actionable intelligence less conspicuously. He noted the license plate and spoke into his radio.
- "Do you work for Alamo Finance?"
* "No, this is an Alamo Rental car."
- "Have you been shooting digital, or film?"
* "Film."
- "I'll need the film."
Damn. Those were the last six frames in the roll. I meekly handed it over.
* "Can I get it back?"
- "Dont know – this becomes federal government property."
* "Are they going to process it? This isnt regular negative film, it needs special processing for slides. (And push it a stop and a half please.) I'll give you my Fedex number, in case they want to return it unprocessed. USPS uses x-ray."
- "I'll give you a call once I know; are you going to be in the area?"
* "I'm flying out of Albuquerque on Tuesday." Enough time to get me into the No-Fly list. The cogs of security churning...
He shook my hand, and let me go.

I wonder if this is the noblest deed of civic duty my friend has ever done. Calling 911 and then keeping me engaged in conversation: now that was pure class. Straight out of John Buchan. Hell, he even made me feel like I was in the resistance movement. Much better than being pulled over on the dark highway and being yelled at: STEP OUT OF THE CAR, HANDS OVER YOUR HEAD!


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Next time show the cops this review of photographers' rights, ask politely for their names, and ask for a signed receipt for taking possession of your property (the film): http://www.picturesink.com/images/ThePhotographersRight.pdf

Then again, if you're speaking with federal agents, do whatever you have to do to simply get out of the situation. It's not worth getting sent to Guantanamo Bay and getting endlessly tortured, without access to due process (regardless of whether or not you've done anything).

At least you didn't have your camera taken away, as amateur photographer Mike Maginnis did: http://www.2600.com/news/view/article/1441

On what day did we all suddenly wake up in a police state? On the day, when the American government turned against its own citizens, America lost the "war on terror" and the terrorists decisively won the first round. With no clear enemy in sight, the secret service has nothing better to do than terrorize the rest of us, bypassing 200+... more

Anonymous Too     Fri, 13 Jan 2006 04:22:06 -0500


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July 31, 2004

Inheritance Tax: Why Not?

Those two words: Why Not? are the gist of my argument. The rest is elaboration: Income is taxed; why should income by a particular method — being born to rich parents — be exempt? The term "Death Tax" is cleverly misleading, creating the impression that the dead are being taxed. Not at all! it's the heirs, the ones "earning" the inheritance whose income is being taxed.

But that money was already taxed! The parent already paid taxes on it! goes the cry. How can you tax the same money twice? Outrage!! Excuse me – if I hire somebody to paint my apartment, I'm paying him out of the remnants of my salary after paying taxes; he has to pay taxes again out of the money I pay him. That is how income tax revenues are generated. Why should somebody who makes money not by painting houses but simply by the demise of his rich parents be exempt from taxes?

To take the paradox to the extreme, consider the rich Mr Tree. He has two sons, the useless Younger and the hardworking Elder. Mr Tree has a special fondness for the Younger, arriving as he did ten years after Elder. Elder can get to his father's wealth only by working for him; the Younger is simply left the rest at Mr Tree's demise. The money comes out of the same source but Elder has to pay taxes because he actually worked for it! while Younger gets a free ride.


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While the argument is valid and I tend to agree with you on this (unlike the Limelight versus City Lights debates), the Mr Tree example is not as intersting as it promised to be when I started reading it...

Dipanjan     Tue, 8 Jan 2008 05:46:45 -0500
> "Why not" is reserved for the individuals to be used as ...

You, of course, chose to ignore the entire elaboration of my argument, i.e. the fairness of taxing equal income equally, irrespective of source.

> As for the capital gains and dividends - I am not sure why exactly you want to make investing in this country much less attractive ...

and that statement, of course, was made after a careful study of taxation system of comparable countries...

Shayok Mukhopadhyay     Tue, 23 Aug 2005 20:17:36 -0400


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May 14, 2004

Hindu Hair, Kosher Wigs

I've always thought observant Hindus and orthodox Jews are pretty similar in that they have all kinds of complicated rules to live by and then they have workarounds for the inconvenient ones. Like hiring a non-Jewish person to light a candle on Sabbath. Or like my in-laws (observant Hindus), when faced with a train departing at an hour deemed inauspicious for travel, leaving the suitcases outside the door an hour in advance so that technically the journey has started at a "good" time. But what I read in the newspaper today really brings these two peoples into bizarre juxtaposition.

Apparently, married orthodox Jewish women are supposed to cover their hair out of modesty. So what do they do? They wear wigs! Made out of real human hair! C'mon, you're supposed to cover your hair so that you do not tempt men... now you choose to sport a lovely blond waist length Rapunzel that's far more seductive than your own wispy thin split-end strands?

Funny enough, but where do Hindus get into the story? There are some temples in India, like the one at Tirupathi, that are really big on devotees donating their hair. In exchange for the Lord providing a male heir, for example. The temples then turn around and sell this hair for the Western wig market. All was well till a rabbi ruled that such hair is tainted with the idolatry of Hinduism. Modest Jewish women from Brooklyn to Haifa are rushing to turn in their real human hair wigs for artificial ones. The more zealous ones are throwing them into bonfires.

Hindus have a convenient rule to deal with such situations — allow me to paraphrase from Sanskrit — Price Purifies. If you acquire something in a financial transaction, it ceases to be impure. This allows a Brahmin who would not sit under the same roof with a Muslim to buy fruit from him and eat it raw.

Let the rabbis and the pandits put their heads together, and I'm confident they'll come up with something for the hair situation.


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watch out for the wrath of the in-laws.

revathi     Sun, 13 Jun 2004 11:43:46 -0400
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May 1, 2004

Whitney Biennial

Went to Manhattan couple of weeks ago to see the Whitney Biennial (it's on till end of May) and the Parmagianino exhibition at the Frick Collection. Words like biennial always confuse me – is it twice a year, or once in two years? Well, in this case, it was easy – it isnt easy organizing a show of this size twice a year. Funnily, the English language itself seems confused – in
Merriam Webster, the first definition of biannual is "twice a year", and the second points to the the first entry for biennial, which is once in two years.

Anyway, this seems to be a big event – the line for tickets wrapped around the block; as corporate members, we walked straight up and collected our free tickets; the plebs have to queue up to pay up.

Only a few items piqued my interest – most of the show seemed padded with video installations that serve me no purpose except to be reminded of the weirdo video artist Harrington in Big Lebowski. One was a dumpster that had most of the metal in its walls cut out and replaced by plexi or glass, some see-through material. This is an interesting concept – we throw things into dumpsters, sort of a black hole, never bothering what's inside there, what happens to them. This was giving us a window into this dark world. Unfortunately, it seemed to be more interesting in concept than in execution; the contents of the dumpster as imagined by the artist were not quite that interesting – things seemed be too well laid out inside, too sparse to be convincingly dumpsterish. For a technical treatise on dumpster-diving, see Travels with Lizbeth by Lars Eighner.

Another was a project by Emily Jacir, who went to Palestine and asked individuals to make a wish that she would fulfil for them. About a dozen such wishes were documented by a short text each (what was the wish, who made it, what passport did the wisher hold), and (except in one case) a photo. Every wish involved travelling a short distance that for the wisher may as well be a world away because of travel restrictions; implied but never mentioned is Emily's American passport that endows her with a winged angel's power to pass through concrete and razor wire.

Should I stand back and wonder if Emily offered to help these people out of kindness, or to gather material for a Whitney show? Just like she's (presumably) chosen the most interesting wishes to exhibit, did she also choose the most touching/poignant/dramatic wishes to fulfil? Or is that along the same line of questioning as asking if the war/genocide/disaster photographer is living off others' misfortunes? He may actually be making a living off it, but he didnt cause it, nor did he have it in his power to; he's merely documenting for us and showing to us what we'd otherwise not know.

Frickin' Surprise!

The Frick turned out to be a discovery. It surprises me that it doesnt rub shoulders with the MoMA and the Met in reputation; casually strewn about its opulent interiors are Vermeers, Rembrandts, Whistlers – the latter's tall, elegant Arrangement in Gold and Black was totally new to me.

That little sketch in the corner looks interesting – I walk over and peer at the label – well what d'you know – a Brueghel the Elder!

The interiors actually contribute to the experience – the capacious high-ceilinged mahoganied rooms of the former Frick residence provide the right atmosphere for the old masters' oils in their ornate frames – quite unlike the hospital hallway school of decor of most museums. Vermeer's yellow dresses and fresh faces throb luminously against the rich dark walls. These are the kind of walls they were commissioned to hang on.


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<a href="htp://www.dict.org/">dict.org</a>

sorry     Fri, 1 Apr 2005 09:36:11 -0500
RE: English Dictionary and bi-ennial. Welcem to the new America. Today, everythingis for sale, and everything is a crapy as t can be to please as large a percentage of the consumers as possible with as little effort as possible.

It means every other year. Too many ignorant Americans think it means twice a year? Okay, change it to mean twice a year. Whatever sells dictionaries TODAY is all that matters.

I suggest you ignore the $5 dictionaries and stick with the real ones, especialy if you want to learn American English. Noone can produce a god dictionary and sell it for $5. Or use http://www.dict.org. It seems to be pretty good.

American guy     Fri, 1 Apr 2005 09:35:25 -0500


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