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Sunday
After a six-hour bus ride, we reached Chihuahua past midnight and checked
into the noisy Hotel Bal Flo. The time-zones mystery we never
quite solved. Lonely Planet made a big deal of Creel being one hour ahead of
Los Mochis if you were careless, you could miss your Copper Canyon train, they warned;
however, everybody in Creel was blissfully going around with Los Mochis time
the Casa Margarita manager firmly asserted "Lonely Planet is wrong" (heresy!).
Chihuahua had its clocks an hour ahead of Los Mochis, as we expected; however,
at the Chihuahua airport,
an electronic display put Mazatlan and Tijuana at the same time, 2 hours
behind Chihuahua, which was completely wrong. La hora Mexicana!
Approaching civilization, I tried to catch up on the worries of the
world by poring over the Spanish newspaper on the Chihuahua-Tijuana flight.
Papa Juan Pablo (Pope John Paul) wished his people well on the occasion
of Easter. Bar-graphs were plotted tracking the hottest Semana Santa
destinations for Mexicans who could afford them. Javier Solana was revving up
the NATO F-16s for bombing Yugoslavia so that
Lockheed Martin workers could put
food on their tables.
Tijuana is the only domestic airport where I've seen baggage being examined on the
way out again, an attempt to choke the drug routes to the US. Places like
Tijuana make you feel like an illegal immigrant trying to sneak into the
land of milk, honey, and opportunity. The recorded message playing
interminably at the crossing does all it can to enforce that feeling
Any attempt to enter the United States of America by fraudulent means will
result in arrest pending federal proceedings, deportation, and being debarred from entering
the country for upto ten years. Please have your papers ready. Any attempt
to... Accustomed mostly to processing minimum-wage Mexican workers crossing
over to San Diego for jobs too menial for Americans, the INS agents found
us H1-B, "technology" workers, doing jobs too high-tech for the American
education system to fill too hot to handle. However, it was us, not the INS,
who took the heat standing in 3 queues in tropical midday sun, being bounced around
windows by officers who barely knew the rules and sometimes hardly spoke English.
Having had enough of tourism, we made straight for the San Diego airport,
though there was plenty of time before our flight left. We were hoping to
inform America West three hours in advance that Revathi needed Asian Vegetarian
food on the plane, only to be told I'm sorry sir, you must let us know 72
hours before the flight, because you see, the food has to prepared.
Monday
"The day dawned cold and grey on the New Jersey turnpike, exceedingly
cold and grey..." I wish I knew an urban-desolation Jack London to quote; instead I have to
make do with this shoddy parody-misquote hash. The Olympia bus from
Newark to Grand Central skywayed over the
dead flat marshes of New Jersey, the horizon peppered with soul-numbing
factory sheds and cardboard cutout Manhattan skyscrapers. Passing through
the featurelessness of the Lincoln tunnel, we surfaced into
mid-Manhattan, with its ugly unpainted building blocks, and sunless streets
walked by soundless automatons determined to obliterate themselves into their
heavy, black coats. The effect was depressing beyond description.
I took weeks to pinch the reality into me that this was reality,
that I had to drive myself to work, brake at STOP signs, respond to
insincere litanies of How are you today? Goood. Thank you. Have a nice
day. You too.
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Just Look Here For a Sec, ImpressiveHello!,
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tgpnohzka ijvxzye Tue, 17 Jun 2008 11:23:26 -0400
Hello. Your review of Baja interests me as we are planning on going next month. You stated there was a better chance of friendlies sitings in San Ignacio-would you suggest going there over Guerro Negro for a whale tour? If you had it to do over would you deal with the bus again? I will be taking both type cameras from your comments. Thanks for your helpful website. Ginger from San Diego
ginger Sat, 14 Jan 2006 15:13:16 -0500
Excellent write up.
Most interesting and "striking" part of course is
the last paragraph..detailing the misery seen in
a visitor's eye upton returning to cold and grey
weather from sunny environments.
Anonymous Tue, 29 Apr 2003 00:00:00 -0400