Mexico City is my favorite big city; I've spent varying lengths of time in various
Indian cities (being brought up in one), been to a couple in Spain and
South America, worked in New York, but Distrito Federal
(or D.F., as the locals call Mexico's capital) beats them all handily.
I've spent about ten days in it over two periods separated by six years,
and now I've decided I'd like to rent an apartment there for a month, and invite
friends over.
I like it how it reminds me of India, and contrasts itself with the U.S., I admire
its huge artistic wealth, and love the fact that I can be as poor or
as rich (earning U.S. dollars as I do) there as I wish: I can ride the 2¢ subway
and eat in top-flight restaurants; I can stay in peeling old budget hotels and get
ringside tickets to bullfights.
Till I get the apartment (or you get to know me well enough to be let into it),
here's some guidance for those of you who'd like to try it on your own.
What do you do there?
Same as in any big city: walk about, go to museums, restaurants, cafes, go shopping
(if you can afford it – easy with dollars in DF), and generally soak up the atmosphere.
When you see pre-Hispanic art in central and south American museums, you realize
how overrated European art is.
But is it safe?
From my two time experience, as safe as any big city, if you avoid hailing a cab
off the street (a government-acknowledged high-risk activity).
In Madrid, my wife's backpack was being picked in the subway by a thief without a
murmur of protest from other passengers. Nothing like that ever happened in DF.
I like to tape over the logos of my cameras, follow the advice in Lonely Planet,
and keep my wits about in crowded and deserted places.
Is the food/water safe?
I've eaten roadside; provided the food was hot off the stove, I've never had trouble. Often it's
prepared right before you, which gives me additional confidence. Bottled water is cheap.
For quick and inexpensive breakfasts, we love the Panaderias (Bakeries) where you pick
the stuff off shelves with tray and tongs and pay at the checkout.
Where do you stay?
I prefer the budget hotels in the heart of the city, close to the Zocalo. It helps
you ignore the sprawling grunginess of the megalopolis. In Novermber 2004, we stayed
in big old Hotel Isabel; the room was spartan but clean and cost US$22 a
night (a 50% increase
in six years). Each room has an electronic safe. You get two towels, not twelve.
Hot shower but no bath. There arent any designated non-smoking rooms, but since people
do open windows, and carpets are thin,
I didnt have a problem. (And I do have problems in cheap American motels.) The VW Bugs
hurtling down Avenida Isabel La Catolica are quite loud, so you may want to ask
for a room not facing the street, or accept the noise as ambience. Rival Hotel
Montecarlo nearby boasts of having hosted D.H. Lawrence once upon a time.
Once more: what do you do there?
Art
Mexico City's greatest treasures are artistic, both pre-Colombian/pre-Hispanic and modern.
For the former, you dont want to miss the Templo Mayor excavation site and adjoining museum
(this also takes you through the Zocalo, the big square, and past
the Metropolitan Cathedral, worth a peek).
If you're willing to handle sensory overload and accept the fact that you'll never see
it all, dont miss the Anthropological Museum. When Europe was still churning out
Madonna & Childs,
pre-Colombian artists were doing art-for-art's-sake: a woman grinning, a boy firing a
catapult.
For twentieth-century art, there's one name that shines above the rest: Diego Rivera, even
though his two time spouse Frida Kahlo seems to have brushed some limelight lately off
Selma Hayek. Rivera's murals are open to the public and easily seen in the Palacio
Nacional conveniently located at the Zocalo, and in the Ministry of Education nearby.
Unfortunately, his paintings seem to be scattered around the world; there isnt a
concentrated collection in DF. You can buy posters though.
For an unforgettable combo of the above two, you need to go to Anahuacalli, the
Rivera-designed fortress-like museum made of black volcanic rock that houses his
personal collection
of pre-Hispanic art. (Can you ask for more?) Anahuacalli is located in
the outer sprawl of the city; you'll take the subway and the light rail, and a short
walk, so you'll sadly realize that Mexico City is not all Centro Historico.
Atmosphere
In evenings, the area around
Uruguay and San Letran is the picture of a super-busy third world city going
about its business. Right there is Churreria El Moro, a twenty-four hour cafe
where you get freshly made churros and rich, thick chocolate (to dip the churros
in). You can go there for breakfast, when it's quite empty, and can see the churros
being fried without being knocked over by a passing waitress, or for an evening snack, when all of
Mexico City appears to have stopped by on the way back from work or shopping.
Shopping
We've always limited this to Mexican handicraft. The best prices and collection
are to be had at Centro de Artesanias La Ciudadela. Dont keep this for the last
day and have plenty of time on hand, or you'll regret it like we always have.
If you have more time
I'd suggest (in this order) a trip to Teotihuacan,
two hours from DF, where the great Aztec pyrmaids
are; the Museum of Modern Art; Museo Dolores Olmeda Patino; a walk along Paseo de la Reforma;
a peek inside the Palacio de Bellas Artes for its murals and
architecture; a bullfight,
but only if you've read Hemingway's Death in the Afternoon
first.
Dont I need Spanish?
The very basic phrases and numbers will be helpful in budget eateries (high-end restaurants
have bi-lingual menus) and handicraft shops. If you're not easily embarrassed, you could
have them write down the numbers. Apart from that, a good guide-book will adequately navigate
you through the metro and museums.
How do I get around?
Metro and Number 11 (i.e. your pair of legs) are the best options. Avoid the temptingly
cheap Libre taxis; they have a bad reputation for mugging. Radio Taxis charge a reasonable
safety premium.
Get yourself a Guide
This article is meant to encourage you to visit my favorite city, and steer you to my
favorite attractions, but you really need a bona-fide guide-book. I recommend
The Lonely Planet Guide to Mexico. You're also invited to browse through my
Mexico City Travelogue.
A Plug for Puebla
Only three hours from Mexico City by very frequent buses, Puebla would be worth
visiting if only for its Amparo Museum. It has colonial art, and pre-colonial art; you'll
have no trouble deciding which is superior.
hey be careful with the thief if you go to mex, overall the DF. And if you want to buy very, but seriously very cheap things I recomend you to go to Tepito. In this place you can buy ANYTHING, but is under your own risk. Is very very dangerous to go there too. You just be careful. You wont regret. P.S. And if you find a thief just scream: ¡¡¡Una patrulla!!! and when he look back run like the devil, the thiefs are very lazy, they wont chase you, most of them don't have a gun, don't even a knife. And if someone ask you for the time NEVER show your cell phone.
That's all I hope you can survive.
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Crazy Sat, 5 Apr 2008 10:49:23 -0400
Puebla es uno de los mejores lugar para visitar es rica en cultura y tradicciones,,su gente es muy amigable ...I Love you Puebla and I miss you
Anonymous Tue, 13 Mar 2007 14:21:33 -0400
Puebla is one of the best States In Maxico,,I Love you Puebla And I miss you forever
Anonymous Tue, 13 Mar 2007 14:19:12 -0400
Hi Shayok, I used to live in Puebla and now I live in Mexico City. I enjoyed reading your travel guide, as a native, for your next trip I suggest you to visit the museum of anthropology (Museo de Antropologia) where you can see the best of the art of the Aztecs, Mayas, Olmecas and another ethnics groups. This museum is in Chapultepec (Bosque de Chapultepec) where you can also visit the Castillo de Chapultepec. In Puebla City I also suggest you the Palafoxian Library, la Capilla del Rosario and the flee market Los Sapos.
Near Puebla (30 min) you may visit the town of Cholula and near there, Santa María Tonantzintla where there is a baroque church. The interior is amazing.
Best regards
Hector aiza Tue, 23 Jan 2007 14:37:23 -0500
Lovely and positive observations. I have loved the Hotel Monte Carlo for many years--big plus is that during the huge 80's earthquake, it and the Nat'l Library next door did not fall down or even sustain appreciable damage, despite near devastation all around; and you can't beat the location.You might want to visit Cuernavaca (lovely zocalo and Cortez's palace w/ famous Diego mural depicting Zapata & Mexican revolution); but avoid weekends amd semana santa (holy week) as many D.F. residents go there for vacation getaways. From the excellent Cuernavaca mercado, you can catch a magical bus to Tepotzlan.
C. de Lamadrid Fri, 3 Mar 2006 16:05:54 -0500
what is the population in mexico
Anonymous Mon, 23 Jan 2006 11:42:04 -0500
Edward, I have 2 numbers for the Monte Carlo. I`m not sure either still works but it might be worth a shot.Try:
5255 5518-1418
or
5212559 / 9363
Good luck.
S.
Sky Fri, 30 Dec 2005 17:59:49 -0500
I need a fone number for Hotel Monte Carlo Av.Uruguay 69
mexico city. they've changed their number recently.
edward gasser Sun, 18 Dec 2005 12:56:02 -0500
hi
sub!
Anonymous Thu, 15 Dec 2005 19:55:41 -0500
Yeap! You're right. Since I studied in Puebla twelve years ago, I've been back, and back, and back... Last time two weeks ago, then going again in a couple of days. Have been all around the world, never fell in love with any other place quite like this. You have to get to know the rest of Mexico - magic!
Daniela Thu, 16 Jun 2005 15:35:46 -0400
What a charming personal account - I will use this report to plan my trip to Mexico City, scheduled for september, 2005. Thank you!
Susan Thu, 19 May 2005 14:50:40 -0400
Headiing for Mx City for the very first time. Your travelogue seems to be the most comprehensive! Nice work!
Gargi Shinde Tue, 19 Apr 2005 17:56:12 -0400
would you like to see modern arquitecture?
Eugenia Sarre Fri, 8 Apr 2005 20:42:57 -0400
Excellent wrap up of one of the best cities in the world. THANKS!
I'd like to add the canals of Xochimilco to your list. You float around for an afternoon (preferably Sunday) and buy your lunch from passing boats ..everybody's boat is decorated, and the color scheme takes you right to India . . .
Guido Tue, 29 Mar 2005 19:55:41 -0500
With the exception of India, it looks as if we have been following each other around! We just arrived home from six weeks in Mexico having spent 4 days in Mexico City and 4 in Oaxaca. Your feelings about Mexico City closely mirrors ours. This was our first time there and we fell in love with the city. We chose Oaxaca in order to be in close proximity to the ruins at Monte Alban and Mitla as well as seeing the weavers in Teotitlan del Valle. Also to be quite honest we had heard about the wonderful food there as well and we were not disappointed.
Sheila Thu, 17 Mar 2005 11:09:19 -0500
