Chapter 1. Flying In
JFK is designed like a maze. If you choose the right fork, getting to
the Long Term Parking lot is a breeze, as it was the first time I'd
used it. This time, we went wrong somewhere, and even when
we were back onto the right track, they had enough ambiguously pointing
arrows to mislead us. With all that eating into our brains, by the
time we'd checked in there wasnt too much time left, and Revathi
discovered her purse was not with her. Her guess was she'd not put it
back in her pocket after paying the extortionist at Whitestone Bridge,
so it ought to be in the car, but we could take no chances; Citibank
had to be called up to invalidate the credit and ATM cards. Here's
where JFK really comes into its own - phones, phones everywhere, not
a quarter to be found. The soda lady said she couldnt open the till
unless you made a purchase and all her items were worth $x.95.
The silver lining was that in the meantime, I'd managed to locate a
money-changing counter and was able to obtain some Mexican pesos; this
job had been left to the last moment; they charged some
absurd fee, but the prospect of landing up at midnight like a
greenback-loaded gringo at the mercy of the notorious Mexico City taxi
driver was not a pleasing one. I have a dark, subcontinental skin,
but would there be any concessions for that?
Well, we did manage to buy a phone card, and Revathi managed to
recall her ATM card number (would you know of anything more absurd?
- they cant invalidate your card unless you tell them the number;
are you supposed to tattoo or brand yourself 6218 8083.... in case you
lose the card).
Phew! all that behind us, we got into the plane; it was Delta
Airlines taking us to Mexico City on the eve of Thanksgiving - with
Monday off we had five days to explore a bit of this vast, complicated country.
Our bible for the trip was the Lonely Planet guide to Mexico. We had
considered Baja California, the peninsular pinkie of Mexico hanging
tenuously off California: to its west the Pacific; to its east,
Gulf of California (also known as Sea of Cortez) separating it from
mainland Mexico. Baja is known for its isolated beaches, for deserts and
oases, and ancient cave art; down south along it, at La Paz we could take
an overnight ferry across the Sea of Cortez to land in Los Mochis the
next morning. The legendary Copper Canyon railway runs from there to
Chihuahua through 20 canyons in Tarahumara Indian land.
However, we rejected this plan as too full of uncertainties for the
limited time we had; besides, the whales wouldnt be back
till January, and what's Baja California without whales, we
knowledgably told ourselves. Cancun and Acapulco then being
dismissed as too resortish, Mexico City, interesting enough for Lonely
Planet to devote an entire volume to it, was the automatic choice.
Next to us was a Chilean gentleman - 68 years old, 34
spent in Chile, 34 in the US, business-travelling all over the Americas.
What did he think of General Pinochet, who was in the limelight
with his arrest in London. Well, businesses did well then, at the
cost of a few thousand disappearances. All my brothers did well, I am
the poor one. If someone from your family disappeared, you hate
Pinochet; if you made money, you like his regime - it's as simple as
that. My mother came over to the US to live with me when she got sick
of the long lines for bread (how that was consistent with the economy
doing well, wasnt clear).
He tested my knowledge of the language with a Spanish edition Readers
Digest (have you ever wondered - how a magazine can have such wonderful
back-covers with such lousy content?), which had already been put to
the test of booking a room in Hotel San Diego over phone from New York.
It remained to be seen whether that room would be really there for us, or
communication had been entirely garbled and we'd be looking for the
local Salvation Army at midnight.
Mexico City looked really teeming from the air. In the profusion of lights,
there were mysterious scattered islands of darkness, which we would
later discover to be uninhabited hills, with towers flashing red lights in
the middle of them. Officially, the city is called Districto Federal,
or D.F.
Immigration, customs, pre-paid taxi (BTW, the booth inside the customs
area has the same charges as that in the Domestic Area, in case you're
as paranoid as me about being fleeced by foreigners), all went
smoothly, and Hotel San Diego turned out to
be extremely helpful, trustworthy and good value for money. They'd
dropped a letter from my name, but it was still identifiable.
The sheet had a few eyelets
on it, but the room was big and clean; the bath had a shower, though no
tub; a bottle of agua purificada had been provided; at $11, royal.
Re shoeshines, what you say about DF is true, but to see the real shoeshine boys, go to a pueblo where you put your foot up on a planter box, or car bumper, or orange crate, or any other "object" that is handy in the zocalo, and get a great shine including washed shoe laces, or in the case of runners, a real good wash job. Prices depend on competition, ex: if five kids are availeable the price is a lot less than if one kid is alone in the zocalo.
Randy Thu, 12 Jun 2008 15:19:42 -0400
i think it is wrong making bulls fight for money why cant people find something better with their time and money i think theses people have got more money than sense if they are spending so much money on bull fighting
Jodi-Ann Tue, 6 Mar 2007 11:13:01 -0500
Okay.. you could limit the info a little.I'm in SpanishI and need something a little easier to use as a research project info site... Its all about understanding the material!!!!!! N E way thanx for the info!!!! You did have that!!!
Laura Tue, 24 Oct 2006 12:36:24 -0400
hola cómo eres, odio este sitio debido a toda la información falsa, yo pienso ese realmente ***** srry, bien yo odio sí este sooo mucho
chocolate caliente Thu, 25 May 2006 10:03:17 -0400
Hi I Want To Now How Big is el Zocalo Aand the history of the Mexican flag.
Daniela Sat, 4 Feb 2006 12:30:57 -0500
Hello would like to know if there are paintings of frida Kahlo in the museum nacional, doing a reaserch on her for my university. Any info will be great
Gianna @ kingston university, london, U.K
gianna carriero Thu, 26 Jan 2006 11:49:42 -0500
I would like to know who was the architecture of El Zocalo.
Thank You.
Evelia Leal Mon, 5 Dec 2005 14:24:35 -0500
juste pour une question:Pourquoi la place de la constitution à Mexico porte-t-elle aussi le nom de Zocalo?
Dchidjo faustin Tue, 26 Jul 2005 13:41:40 -0400
Enjoyable and helpful (i.e. taxi booth inside having same price, canals not being worth it, etc.). I hope you consider visiting the Northern colonial towns someday; they're wonderful, too. I especially love Guanajuato, Queretaro, Morelia and Patzcuaro - each different and each special.
Jane Sun, 19 Jun 2005 19:46:45 -0400
Great report. I very much enjoyed reading it.
Too bad about the idiot who littered up this site!
Still thank you very much for you efforts and advice
Sandy Thu, 9 Jun 2005 07:51:08 -0400
this was a wonderful way to study for my final. thank you.
laura Sat, 4 Jun 2005 20:56:53 -0400
Do you agree that this is probably one of the world's most vibrant hearts of a big city, and than not only when there are earthquakes......When I read the text above , I read it in your words, but did you feel it, too? I hope you did..because this is really a special place! the only thing I miss in your text is the rythmic drums that are not always visible, but their slow, faster, though consistent rythms are always, always, there.
Robert Wed, 4 May 2005 05:47:02 -0400
this was a really great reoport of the city thanks!!!!!!!!!!
lauren middleton Thu, 17 Mar 2005 17:36:09 -0500
im doing a project on mexico, what about the rituals the indians have? thats important and people INCLUDING ME wanna no about it...(sorry i had to fix a few mistakes i submitted before)
Anonymous Sat, 12 Mar 2005 14:18:03 -0500
Hi! I just wanted to say that your journal helped me a ton on my spanish class presentation! You should write a novel about this!
Anonymous Thu, 3 Mar 2005 13:22:17 -0500
i think it is a great place and i hope it stays kewl. kewl
pedro sanchez Thu, 24 Feb 2005 14:41:21 -0500
Zocalo is to Mexico as Main St is to USA, i.e. you'll find one in every Mexican city. Mexico City residents started calling their central square Zocalo, "meaning base, when a statue of the Spanish monarch Carlos IV was removed after independence, leaving only the pedestal. The name has been adopted informally by many other Mexican cities for their main plaza." (Lonely Planet Mexico, 2004)
Shayok Mukhopadhyay Sun, 9 Jan 2005 19:49:35 -0500
do any of you kno where i can find a good source of information on the history of the Zocalo?
Anonymous Sun, 9 Jan 2005 15:15:09 -0500
Zocalo is the center of town in Santo Domingo. It is surrounded by the National Palace, a Cathedral, shops, buildings, and a park. There is a lot of history in the Zocalo Square, including a temple and a mexican mueseum. Also, Zocalo is known for the flag at the center of the square.
em Sun, 9 Jan 2005 13:37:10 -0500
this is way rad!!!
carmon blake Tue, 14 Dec 2004 14:22:47 -0500
Im serious against bullfights and i hope that the people whó loves it will burn in hell for ever. How will they feel when i will kill them with my weapons?!!!
I dont understand the fun of it. The animals are againstles and they are born to suffer and lose!!!!
It has to stop!!!! Why dont we have humanfighting??? That will be fear to me....Greets, M. from the netherlands
mirrin from holland Sat, 11 Dec 2004 09:37:39 -0500
sorry, my email is martin_man64@hotmail.com, so please if anyone has a picture of the spear used in portuguese bullfights, if they could send it to me.
gracias
martin Ferreria Wed, 17 Nov 2004 12:55:59 -0500
hey, i was looking for a picture of a portuguese 'pica', the spear that the bullfighting on the horse uses. If u have any, it would be greatlt appreciated if u could send it to. I've been looking for one for a tattoo, so a picture of the spear alone would be most desired.
thank you
Martin Ferreria Wed, 17 Nov 2004 12:53:32 -0500
Go ahead, pontificate! but limit yourself to 3000 characters (no html).Hi, I am coming to mexico to the yukatan pen. to see Talume and chichen Itsa I wish to plan a stop over in Mx. City to go through the Museum. Is there not One fairly new (over the last 5yrs) that holds extensive artifacts from the sites. I remember reading about it but I am not clear on which one it is...
Will It be open Dec 26th? I am planning to have our stop over 25-27 Dec.
Thanks for any info you may give
Thanks, Todd
todd Fri, 29 Oct 2004 20:35:26 -0400
you have no idea what mexico is.
you only say bullshits about my country, soldiers who looks like they will do something to you, come on!
all green bettles robbing everybody, you most be kidding..
please before you write stupidities, be sure to know what you are talking about.........you copycats!
1 mexican pissed off! Mon, 11 Oct 2004 21:28:56 -0400
this was a helpful site....i had to do a mexico project and needed info.....
Anonymous Tue, 14 Sep 2004 20:52:30 -0400
You have a wonderful & entertaining website!
Thanks & Kind Greetings from Osoyooys, B.C.,
Okanagan real estate.
Osoyoos B.C. Tue, 4 Nov 2003 01:00:00 -0500
Greetings and Good day!! Very Well written by You
and at the Least Entertaining! Thanks & Best
Wishes, Kelowna - B.C. - Canada.
Kelowna Mon, 27 Oct 2003 01:00:00 -0500
While it is true that the Aztecs found a series of huge lakes, they did not drain parts of them; the Spaniards did after the conquest and started farming in the rich boggy soil. The chinampas and the canal network of Xochimilco were widespread and in existence before the arrival of the Spanish and were not a consequence of their mismanagement. The chinampas are the remnants of a remarkable and unique agricultural system that has managed to produce for the needs of the great city through the centuries.
Rodrigo Hernandez Tue, 23 Apr 2002 01:00:00 -0400
I went to Mexico City in 1975, and among the
places I visited was the Museo Nacional de
Anthropologia. On the page that mentioned it, I
was let down because you did not mention some of
the "very famous" artifacts that are located
there such as the original "Aztec Calendar" which
is known worldwide and a "replica of Moctezuma's
headdress (or crown)" which is also very famous
as well as very beautiful. I am glad that you
have mentioned ways of taking care of one's self
by avoiding hailing taxis from the street. I
would also like to add, that one should be very
careful when employing the locals for shoe shines
when there may be other older groups of boys
around (especially those with baseball bats or
other possible weapons.)
Ron Guilfoyle Sun, 1 Oct 2000 01:00:00 -0400
I really enjoyed your Mexico City travelogue.
I'll be in Mexico later this year, so I'm busy
researching my holiday.
www.KelvinBaggs.com
Kelvin Baggs Sun, 17 Sep 2000 01:00:00 -0400
I really enjoy the way you write and the details
included in your stories. However, the article
regarding the bullfight had several points that
are incorrect (my boyfriend is a "torero" or
matador of Mexico). 1) Bulls are colorblind, they
are charging what is moving and/or what is
catching their eye. 2)
Jen Tue, 25 Jan 2000 01:00:00 -0500
We lived in Mexico for 8 1/2 years - 6 in Toluca
and 2 or so in Xochimilco. Reading through your
travelogue brought smiles to both our faces. Of
course, we lived there doing our regular
occupations, but we both felt that your
perceptions were accurate and most amusing. Good
job! For us, Xochimilco was a good place to live,
just outside the wonderful madness of Mexico City,
and the trolley ride from Taxquena was wonderful
decompression.
--Paul and Phyllis Harris
Paul R. Harris Mon, 31 May 1999 01:00:00 -0400
You layout is an outright copy of Philip
Greenspun's. I'm not sure if he mind it but I
would certainly not encourge you to do this.
Have your own style!
Wee Keng Hor Sun, 31 Jan 1999 01:00:00 -0500
This is the author's response to the previous comment: I'm not sure if this is the right forum for discussing it - nevertheless: I aim for originality in content (ie text and photographs), not html gymnastics; I'm sure Greenspun would be happy that his efforts to convince publishers to present surfers with a minimalistic user-interface are bearing fruit.
Shayok Mukhopadhyay Sun, 31 Jan 1999 00:00:00 -0500